Ah yes, it’s that time of the year again. The streets of Lander have frozen solid into an ice rink, and every time you leave the house is like an episode of “Ice Road Truckers”. The roof of the Moss Cave has turned into a ceiling of daggers, and every trip to The Wilds feels a scene from “Indiana Jones”. You know what that means… It’s Sinks season baby!
Basically the same thing… Photo owned by Lucas Films Studio. Also if anyone from Lucas Films sees this, I took an acting class in college and I think I would be a good fit for a lead for a future Indiana Jones. Call me?
If you are like my roommate Faucet Hands (actually his legal name, not a nickname), colder temps mean sending temps. However, there are dozens of us (dozens!) who consider ourselves fair weather sport climbers, and dread the feeling of numbing out and punting off the top of our project despite the “prime condies”.
While the main wall of Sinks Canyon is one of the premier winter climbing destinations in the country, there are those rare bad days of the dreaded devil cloud that blocks the sun turning a splitter climbing day into a post at the Night's Watch at Castle Black. So after spending many o’ winter climbing days dry firing off my warm-ups from frozen hands, I have slowly learned a few things to help make those chilly days at the cliff even better. Does that make me qualified to write this? Definitely not, so without further ado, I present!
Jake’s Takes: Winter Climbing Tips!
Faucet Hands on a winter send of the classic “Killer” Max Owens Photo http://maxowensmedia.com/
Important Side note: The author does not condone listening to a word he says and does not guarantee that any of the tips and recommendations of this article will make you hike your projies. If anyone knows how to actually send rock climbs, please let me know.
The Tips
1. “Ogres Are Like Onions… They Have Layers” - Why yes, I did just quote Shrek, but nobody has put down more 5.14’s than him, especially during the winter at Sinks. Having a combination of layers you can quickly take on/off is super nice for those days when conditions change rapidly (I.E. any day of the year in Wyoming). Shrek’s pro tip is that a vest is a great way to add warmth without sacrificing mobility. (Just make sure to put it under your jacket so that nobody can see you wearing a vest).
Here Shrek can be seen in the Patagonia Nano Puff Vest worn over a Patagonia Capilene Air Crew. Shrek is a trademark of Dreamworks Studio. Please don’t sue me.
2. “The Hot Rock” - Unfortunately, I’m not talking about Dwayne “The Rock” Johnson in the new “Fast And Furious” movie. To make a hot rock, use a small stove like a pocket rocket to heat up a small rock to place in your chalk bag as a hand warmer. It can be used multiple times, and get your chalk bag warmer than a chemical hand warmer. No fires at the crag you dingus!
Side note #2: the author is not responsible for the weather, burnt hands, or melted chalk bags.
3. “The Ol’ The Freeze and Thaw” – If you find yourself numbing out on your warm ups (me every day of my life), embrace it. Take, or hang on a hold for as long as you can before you totally numb out. Hang on the rope, and warm your hands up inside your jacket (armpits and the back of the neck are the best). I also use the time to rapidly shake my hands from up to down to recirculate the blood back into my hands.
Here the author refers to himself in the 3rd person moments before he punts off the top of “Citadel of Hope”. Taylor Spiegelberg Photo
4. “Shoes In The Jacket Trick” - Illusion Michael, you don’t have time for my illusions! There are few things worse in life than putting on frozen hard climbing shoes that are already sized too small. In between burns on your rig (or even on the approach), I stick my climbing shoes inside my jacket that’s tucked into my harness. For me it makes a huge difference in comfort, and I can actually feel what I am standing on when my shoes are not frozen blocks of ice.
5. “The Light Jog” - Ah yes, a wise man once said “Running is as important for climbing as climbing is for running.” Well, Steve Bechtel is not wrong, but I find that taking a quick jog or firing off a round of jumping jacks can help get your body warm ready to climb. It’s important to remember not to waste any extra energy with running (or any cardio for that matter!) After years of sport climbing, my legs have shrunken to the size of twigs and I am usually forced to hangdog up the trail to the Killer Cave.
The Essential Gear
Here Eddie Marovich latches the jug on another failed attempt on “Dogs of War”. Classic
1. “Belay Puffy” - If you are serious about climbing in the winter, having a good puffy is a bare necessity, a simple bare necessity. Mine is how held together with more climbing tape than fabric at this point, but it keeps me warm during those looooong belays (yes, you know who you are).
2. “Puffy Pants” - I am new to the puffy pants train, but believe me, they are a game changer. A pair of warm insulated pants really does make a world of difference and keeps your whole body warm. Combined with a puffy, you may give the Michelin man a run for his money.
3. “The R1” - This might be my favorite climbing layer. It’s warm, breathable, stretchy, has a helmet compatible hood, and Tommy Caldwell has one. If you need any further persuasion check out this video https://youtu.be/kni-AVRYwA8
4. “Thermos”- As stated earlier in the article, my little sport climbing legs need as light of a pack as possible to make it to the Square Top Boulder, but a thermos with a hot drink is 100% worth the extra weight in the pack. Nothing warms you up like some hot coffee, tea, or soup at the crag. Except maybe a hug :)
The author doing what he does best, falling off of his project. Well, at least it was a nice day. Will McKay photo https://www.willmckayphotography.com/
5. “Thermal Buff”- A buff or neck warmer is super nice to have when there is a cold breeze, or you need more style points at the crag than the visiting Europeans. Must they be better than us at everything??
6. “Warm Belay Gloves” - Essential. Having a good pair of gloves that has a combination of warmth and dexterity for belaying helps keep your hands ready to go without having to warm them up again. They are also helpful for making snowballs to lob at those climbers from Colorado trying to snake your route (AKA me).
7. “Hand Warmers” - An easier alternative to a hot rock. Crack one open on the hike up and throw it in your chalk bag while you climb. When you get to some holds you can camp out at, stuff your mitts in your chalk bag and remember what it feels like to touch something warm again.
Ben Sears wears a lovely T-shirt on “Surplus Fusion Reaction” Photo credit: Charlie Manganimarshmello, wait that’s not right, was it Charlie Mangotangiello, Charlie Man-Jello? No that’s wrong too… Let’s just say Charlie M. Photo.
Thanks for reading! I hope you put down some rigs this winter, and I wish you luck on surviving the Wyoming winter. As always, if you need anything to make your winter climbing days better, Wild Iris Mountain Sports is here for you. If I forgot any of your favorite things, or for grammatical mistakes, leave them in the comments or send a disgruntled email to jake@wildirisclimbing.com